If you're looking for 20 gauge tss load data to squeeze every bit of performance out of your sub-gauge turkey gun, you've probably realized how much of a game-changer Tungsten Super Shot really is. It wasn't that long ago that everyone assumed you needed a heavy 12-gauge 3.5-inch magnum to reliably kill a tom at 40 or 50 yards. But things have changed. With the right recipe, a 20-gauge shooting TSS can actually put more pellets in a 10-inch circle than those old lead 12-gauge loads ever could, and with significantly less "kick-your-teeth-in" recoil.
Getting into the world of reloading TSS is a bit of a rabbit hole, but it's a rewarding one. You aren't just saving a bit of money over the $10-per-shot commercial stuff; you're building a custom round tailored to your specific shotgun. However, since tungsten is way denser than lead (18g/cc vs. about 11g/cc), you can't just swap it into a lead recipe. You need specific data because the pressures behave differently.
Why the 20 Gauge is the Sweet Spot for TSS
The 20 gauge has become the darling of the turkey hunting world for a reason. It's light to carry on those long public land treks, and honestly, it's just more fun to shoot. When you start looking at 20 gauge tss load data, you'll notice that the standard "heavy" turkey load usually lands between 1 5/8 ounces and 1 7/8 ounces of shot.
For most hunters, the 1 5/8 oz load is the "sweet spot." It gives you a massive pellet count—we're talking hundreds of #9 pellets—without pushing the pressures to the absolute limit of the hull. If you jump up to the 1 7/8 oz or even 2 oz loads, you're really packing that hull tight, which can make the reloading process a little more finicky. Plus, the extra shot doesn't always result in a better pattern; sometimes it just results in more recoil and a sore shoulder.
Safety and the "Why" Behind the Recipes
Before you start dumping powder, it's worth mentioning that TSS is incredibly hard. It doesn't compress like lead does. Because of that, your wad choice and your internal components are non-negotiable. If a recipe calls for a specific wad, like a TPS 20 or a Helarc, don't try to substitute it with a random clay bird wad you have sitting on the shelf. You'll either end up with dangerous pressure spikes or you'll scratch the living daylights out of your barrel.
Most reputable 20 gauge tss load data comes from people who have sent their shells to professional labs for pressure testing. You'll see names like Hal Abbott or companies like Ballistic Products mentioned a lot in these circles. Stick to their numbers. If the data says 25 grains of Lil'Gun powder, don't think "maybe 27 will be faster." With tungsten, faster isn't always better. Usually, a moderate velocity—around 1,100 to 1,200 feet per second—produces the tightest, most lethal patterns anyway.
Essential Components for Your 20 Gauge Loads
When you're gathering your supplies, you'll find that certain components show up in almost every 20 gauge TSS recipe.
- Hulls: Most guys prefer 3-inch hulls. Cheddite is the most common because they have a lot of internal volume and are easy to find. Some data uses Federal or Remington hulls, but Cheddites are the gold standard for most "boutique" TSS recipes.
- Powder: For the 20 gauge, Hodgdon Lil'Gun and Alliant 2400 are the big players. Lil'Gun is especially popular because it measures well and performs consistently with heavy payloads.
- Wads: This is the most important part. The wad has to be thick enough to keep those hard tungsten pellets from ever touching your barrel. The TPS 20-gauge wad from Ballistic Products is used in a huge percentage of published data.
- Buffer: Don't skip the buffer. It's a fine plastic granulate that fills the gaps between the pellets. It helps keep the pellets from shifting too much, which prevents "flyers" in your pattern and helps keep pressures consistent.
Understanding Shot Size: 9s vs 10s
The beauty of TSS is that because it's so dense, a #9 pellet has the same killing power as a #4 or #5 lead pellet. This means you can fit way more "killing" pellets into a 20-gauge shell. When looking at 20 gauge tss load data, you'll mostly see recipes for #9 shot.
If you want to get really crazy, some guys use #10 shot. A 1 5/8 oz load of #9s has about 580 pellets. If you go to #10s, that jumps up to over 800. At that point, your pattern looks like a literal wall of lead—well, tungsten. Most hunters stick to #9s because they offer a great balance of pellet count and downrange energy, even out past the distances most of us have any business shooting at.
The Importance of the Roll Crimp
One thing that surprises people new to loading TSS for the 20 gauge is that almost everyone uses a roll crimp rather than a fold crimp. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, TSS loads take up a lot of room. By the time you get your powder, wad, 1 5/8 oz of shot, and buffer in a 3-inch hull, there isn't much room left for a traditional fold.
Second, a roll crimp (using a clear over-shot disk) allows for more consistent pressure. It also looks pretty cool to see those pellets through the top of the shell. You'll need a roll crimping tool that attaches to a hand drill or a drill press. It takes a little practice to get the tension right, but once you find the rhythm, it makes a very professional-looking shell that feeds reliably.
Patterning Your Loads
Once you've followed your 20 gauge tss load data and built a handful of shells, the work isn't done. You have to pattern them. Every shotgun barrel and choke combination is a little bit different. A recipe that shoots a "house-burning" pattern out of my gun might be "just okay" in yours.
Generally, you don't need a super-constricted choke for TSS. Because the shot is so hard, it doesn't deform as it passes through the choke. If you use a choke that's too tight, you can actually "over-crush" the shot column and cause the pattern to blow out or develop holes. Most people find that a mid-range turkey choke (somewhere in the .585" to .565" range for a 20 gauge) works wonders.
Final Thoughts on Loading Your Own
It's easy to get intimidated by the technical side of reloading, especially when you're dealing with something as expensive as tungsten. But as long as you're diligent about following established 20 gauge tss load data, it's a very safe and satisfying hobby.
There's a certain pride that comes with sitting in the woods, hearing a gobbler fire off at sunrise, and knowing that the shell in your chamber is one you built yourself. It's about more than just the "kill"—it's about the preparation and the confidence that your equipment is performing at its absolute peak. So, grab some hulls, find a solid recipe, and get to work. Your 20 gauge is capable of more than you think.